A triangle bra for even the most bosom-y of wenches

February 4, 2016, 4:00 pm

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From my new saviour - B by Ted Baker

 The love that dares not speak its name. That’s my euphemism for ‘titties too big for this bullsh*t’ - the collective cry of bosom buddies with more than a handful to spare. Myself, being the ambivalent bearer of an ample chest (all the more astonishing given my South East Asian ethnicity which tends to come with automatic admission into the itty-bitty-titty committee) have accepted that my DDs are persona non grata at the triangle bra party. Those underwire-less, ethereal, wispy lace handkerchiefs held up with nary but a spaghetti-slim strap? No chance in hell. How about this eggshell-coloured feat of support engineering that bears a passing resemblance to a chastity device?

I had all but given up on finding a lace triangle bra that would do the job and instead resigned myself to, at best; a lifetime of chest-jabbing, heart-stabbing underwire, at worst; matronly breast-prisons in satin beige (why are they always satin and/or beige?). Triangle bras of sheer lace were simply too delicate, too fragile, too unsupportive for anyone over a B cup, or so I thought until Debenhams got in touch with me. 

I've long been a fan of Ted Baker's colourful, sometimes pastel, and floral aesthetic especially for their summer dresses and their accessories. I was pleasantly surprised to learn of their lingerie line B by Ted Baker. Even more so delighted that this pale pink lace triangle bra was not just as pretty in person as it is in pictures, but it actually stayed in place plus is as comfortable and supportive as any of my other bras.

The key, I think, might be in the slightly thicker shoulder straps, or as I prefer to call it: a Valentine's Day miracle. Together with the rest of the set (here) and (here), my forbidden love for all things barely-there is no longer a bad romance, but a skimpy dream come true. Now, if that's not love, I don't know what is...

Shop for B by Ted Baker lingerie at Debenhams. 

Thank you, Debenhams, for the early V-Day gifts. x 

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The Joys of Flying Long Haul

February 6, 2016, 4:00 pm

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Survive? What is this, Bear Grylls and The Chamber Of Secrets?

Let’s be real - there’s nothing to ‘survive’ on a flight, long haul or otherwise. You’re being fed, watered, and oxygenated; all you have to do is sit down, shut up, and not be a cheese-eating racist. Clickbait articles titled otherwise would have a generation of advice-seeking fliers believe that a long haul flight is an epic journey to Mount Doom when really it’s the biggest first world problem of all: Oh, you’re enduring the indignity of travelling thousands of miles over a relatively short space of time and degree of comfort to an exotic destination? Awww, poor thing, does somebody need a waaaah-mbulance? 

Let’s all not lose our heads but rather count our blessings. Not even regard a long haul flight as a means to be justified by the end, but the reasons why the experience is something to be welcomed as a privilege. 

These are the three things I love about flying long haul (not included - squealing WHEEEE! during turbulence).

It’s not just about the destination and/or the journey. For me, the very notion of faraway lands and the promise of adventure is every bit as, if not more, exciting than the trip itself. Nothing is more tantalising than anticipation, and nothing extends those pre-holiday thrills than the amount of preparation and waiting that precedes a long flight. Certainly much more so than a ‘touch & go’ 45 minute flight where you finally manage to get comfortable only to be told to buckle up for landing. 

A huge part of my pre-flight ritual is preparing myself for the ‘maxing, relaxing, the plane is taxing’ in the airport lounge. My personal favourite is the Malaysia Airlines Golden Lounge in Kuala Lumpur International Airport, followed by its sister in Heathrow Terminal 4 (below). A glass of scotch, a cocktail or two with a plate of cheese served by a chipper lady who’s a dead ringer for Mrs. Potts, followed by a shower before boarding the plane…this is what the aviation experience is all about.

Malaysia Airlines First Class Golden Lounge at Heathrow, Terminal 4 - where holidays (and hangovers) start.

I forgot to mention - I love watching planes depart and arrive while waiting to board my own flight. There’s something just so awe-inspiring about man breaking his earthly bounds in a steel bird to tickle the beard of God.

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Andrea Sachs’ idea of bliss is her boss on a flight because it’s the one instance the Prada-wearing she-Devil can’t harass her with Sisyphean demands. While I can count on half a hand the number of bosses I’ve had (oh, the joys of working for yourself…) I can definitely relate. These days everyone is far too connected for their own good and smartphones are making us stupid (or rather, distracted), so the pleasure of being uncontactable and unaccountable for a good few hours is definitely a 21st- century privilege.  

So what do I do when I’m in the zone? It can go either way: extreme relaxation or dedicated productivity. Or even both, why not when I have a baker’s dozen-phone call-free hours to spare? Whether I’m banging out a blog post on my Macbook Air (air! In the air! If only I could upload to cloud, hur hur) or binge-watching Modern Family to endless glasses of champagne, it’s clear that my pod is a space that is very much my own, only to be invaded by the occasional friendly flight attendant offering to top up my glass.

Pushing pixels. Admiring the all-grey coordination of the in-flight beauty kit with my handbag and cabin bag. Snuggling up with my seat mate over drinks. Brushing up on my geography with the live flight route maps and playing pop quizzes with my boy.

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I don’t care much for fashionable cynicism no matter how many bearded hipsters insist that it’s terribly gauche to express interest about anything that isn’t an avant-garde health hazard that should come with a tetanus jab. Fact is: soaring through the skies and over clouds is exciting. C’mon, you’re defying gravity and flipping the figurative bird to Mother Nature. I take over twenty flights a year but the sight of fluffy little rice balls bobbing past my window never does and never will get old. Now take that magical scene and extend it to a baker’s dozen-hour long movie marathon and tell me, isn’t or is this the Greatest Show over Earth? 

Views from: 1) My recent flight from London to Kuala Lumpur, b) my flight from Istanbul over the Alps, c) over Redang Island, and d) the pastel-hued skies over an English sunset.

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Counted your blessings yet? Let’s start by thinking about what we love, not what we dislike, and let’s make the best out of a mildly-inconvenient situation to one with unique opportunites.  

This ode to my love of long haul flights is my contribution to the February Travel Blogger Link up. Read more wonderful love letters to the things, people, and experiences they love, here!

— 

Welcome, Monkey!

February 8, 2016, 7:59 am

≫ Next: The New Old: the Retro Revival of Ipoh, Malaysia

≪ Previous: The Joys of Flying Long Haul

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Gong Xi Fa Cai, Wan Shi Ru Yi! Wishing you all prosperity in the year of the Fire Monkey!

Chinese New Year!!! Reunion dinner! Nian gao! The ‘balik kampung’ exodus! Relatives jabbing at your burgeoning tummy fat: “Wah, HUAT ah!!! (so PROSPEROUS!!!)”. Being interrogated by your elders in turn: “Wei sha hai mei jie hun ne? (Why aren’t you married yet?)” or “Shen me shi hou gei ge sun zi? (When are you going to give me a grandchild?)” But it’s OK, because HONG BAO!!! Unless of course you’re married and tradition dictates you hand over red envelopes of cash to your single friends...*nudge nudge wink wink* Michiekins...

I’m in high spirits, can you tell? Well, I am literally high - I’m blogging this from 10,000 feet above the South China Sea, en route to North Borneo (really just a fancy name for Sabah) to visit my maternal side for Chinese New Year. Aerodynamics aside I am ALWAYS, like, SO STOKED for CNY because it’s the Chinese person’s Christmas don’t cha know?! Relatives reunited (always at my house! The family home is always the den of decadence) to share exchanges of affection/gentle derision. The ever-present suckling pig and chilli giant prawns at our reunion dinner (drool!). An excuse to buy a new red dress (do you want to attract the favour of the Gods of prosperity or not?!). The hong bao, all the hong bao! As Henry - himself a recent ‘convert’ to my way of life - articulated in astonishment: “Wait, you get well wishes, fortune from the Gods, gifts from the magic dragon, AND money thrust upon you?! Chinese New Year is way cooler than Western New Year!” 

It’s  also the one time of year I really go full-out Chinese*: when I suddenly rediscover my ‘fluency’ in Mandarin, (sometimes forgetting how to speak English) and also my love for traditional snacks ie. pineapple tarts, bah kwa, dragon’s beard candy (mmmm), and when I embrace my culture’s traditions and superstitions; shouting “CHOY! DA JI LI ZE!” (touch wood!) like, ten times an hour. Excuse me, your Chinese is showing!  

*I blame it on the infectious and affectionately ingratiating festive cheer in the air aka the ‘dong dong dong chiang’ Chinese New Year music blaring from EVERY sound system in the country.

Sooooo in the spirit of Chinese New Year - and compulsive shopaholicism - here’s my outfit for the first day of The Year Of The Fire Monkey. Some might favour shorter dresses to beat the tropical heat but I insist upon maxi dresses because: more red fabric = better chance of the Gods of Fortune and Prosperity spotting me and bestowing me with lashings of blessings. Hahaha see, told you I am Chinese! 

(Please excuse the food baby, it is Chinese New Year after all, and I may have accidentally fallen face down onto a plate of nian gao. With my mouth open. On several occasions.) 

SHOP THE POST:

Xie xie ni, wo de shin gan bao bei (thank you my dearest darling)Henry Ridley-Cook for dropping to your knees in the middle of KL International Airport to take these photos of me for my blog.

To all my readers: GONG XI FA CAI HONG BAO NA LAI, XIN NIAN KUAI LE, WAN SHI RU YI!

 Malaysians, please be careful: if you’re driving, be slow and steady on the drive back home (and also keep an eye on the calories, especially those pineapple tarts!)

x 

The New Old: the Retro Revival of Ipoh, Malaysia

February 10, 2016, 12:00 am

≫ Next: Sekeping Kong Heng, Ipoh

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Ipoh Old Town, revived with vintage flair 

I chanced upon the most remarkable sight last November when I was in Ipoh to review The Haven.  

In its heyday, the North Malaysian capital of Perak was an icon of the riches of the Empire. But when the mining boom ended, its star faded as the Town Built On Tin became a shell of its former self. All that remained of Ipoh were decaying colonial mansions and shophouses whose weathered bodies whispered of its glory days of British Malaya. As my father did, many of the city’s young emigrated to Kuala Lumpur for bigger prospects, leaving behind a sleepy hollow seemingly inhabited mostly by those old enough to remember pre-independence Malaysia.  

Ipoh, whose star once shone as brightly as Singapore, was now an Adele lyric: “that town where nothing really happened”. Or so I had remembered from my family’s annual Chinese New Year returns to my paternal hometown - it was usually a stopover between Kuala Lumpur and Penang, albeit one boasting some of the best Malaysian culinary fare. Although in recent years Ipoh has become a family-friendly destination for wellness and relaxation, it was not a place I associated with a burgeoning arts and culture scene, and certainly not with the trendy young. 

I was about to proven so satisfyingly wrong.

Behind the facade of the old-school optical shop on the right is quirky cafe-restaurant Missing Marbles, just one of Ipoh's many surprises!

Before returning to Kuala Lumpur, a friend and Ipoh local brought me to one of her favourite lunch spots - Burps & Giggles on Jalan Sultan Yusoff . I was already delighted by the cafe’s eclectic decor and vintage vibe, but then I was ushered through an alleyway into Kong Heng Square where I was met with the most astonishing juxtaposition of ‘old old’ and ‘new old’.

Dilapidated colonial buildings reclaimed by vines framed the square with rows of shops whose colourful, homemade aesthetic wouldn’t look out of place on Pinterest. A steel and glass treehouse - the local branch (haha) of achingly-cool Sekeping boutique hotel chains - stand side-by-side with the soaring structure of Plan B, one of entrepreneur Benjamin Yong’s fashionable "Aussie meets New York deli"-inspired restaurants. Hordes of college-age young ‘uns who look right at home in trendy K.L were busy posing among the faded older buildings, snapping #ootd photos for their Instagram. 

Ipoh had made a comeback, and it was cooler than ever. Dare I even say, it may even be hipper than…Kuala Lumpur?

From the moment I gazed upward at the urban treehouse that is Sekeping Kong Heng I knew that Henry, himself an antique afficionado, would just love the Ipoh's 'new old' vintage spirit. For his birthday surprise, I booked a room at Sekeping Kong Heng which would be our base for exploring and acquainting ourselves with the gently-regenerated Ipoh.

Antiques make for the perfect decor in the rustic interiors of restaurants Missing Marbles and Burps & Giggles.

'Love locks' for RM15 (£2) a pop, the proceeds of which are donated to charity.

Even though Plan B restaurant looks relatively polished, its presence isn't at all jarring in Kong Heng Square. No doubt thanks to its adjacence to Sekeping Kong Heng, whose industrial-chic appearance lends a cohesiveness to Plan B.

If you prefer local drinks over Australian coffees, there's always nearby Bits & Bobs for a classic gula melaka shake.

A blast from the not-so-distant past: 'Uncle Thiru', Ipoh's star barber returns from retirement. The original Star Hair Dressing Salon (since 1927!) is now 'New Star Salon'. A single-chair barbershop in an air-conditioned glass box in Kong Heng Square, New Star Salon is like an exhibit - a slice of Ipoh history that's not just beautifully-preserved but very much alive.

Henry had 'the best haircut of his life' in Uncle Thiru's skillful hands, so relaxing was his head and shoulder massage that Henry nearly nodded off...

...here he is, after...I have to say, I really, really like his new hair cut.

It's obvious that the heart of Ipoh's revival is Kong Heng Square. Here, a delicate sensitivity to the history of Ipoh is evident - whereas crumbling colonial-era buildings elsewhere would have long been bulldozed to make way for glossy shopping malls, here the ravages of time are not only lovingly restored but proudly shown off. Wear and tear is fashionable, rust is patina. Reaching vines are not razed to make way for steel, but rather embraced as a natural addition to the townscape. What was once seen as dated and a relic of the past is now celebrated as nostalgic, retro, and vintage. 

Kong Heng Square is the perfect example of how a quiet, faded town is revived into the cool new destination thanks to creativity without compromising its history. Even more so, its delightfully retro nod to heritage is the very spirit of vintage, is it not? Henry and I were only in Ipoh for a few days but we left so incredibly inspired for Regimental Vintage. Myself, I learnt a lesson or two about not judging a book by its slightly dog-eared cover.

I will be blogging about Sekeping Kong Heng and vintage-inspired Ipoh eateries next, so stay tuned!

x

Sekeping Kong Heng, Ipoh

February 12, 2016, 5:14 am

≫ Next: Birthday Babies

≪ Previous: The New Old: the Retro Revival of Ipoh, Malaysia

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INDULGING MY INNER PETER PAN AT SEKEPING KONG HENG, IPOH 

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I've slept around. Literally - I've stayed at 5* hotels, country piles, cruise ships, Airbnb's, and then some. I'd rate myself reasonably well-travelled, even so my recent trip to Ipoh ticked off a first for me - sleeping in a treehouse. A treehouse! You may already know about my dinner party childhood dreamplans in progress but what kidult doesn't still nurture Neverland fantasies? Ever since Sekeping Retreats burst onto the Malaysian scene with their dreamy 'back to nature' getaways, sleeping al fresco has never been so en vogue, an especially commendable accomplishment given the tropical climate with all its nuisances.

Sekeping Kong Heng sealed the deal for me when I contemplated making a trip to Ipoh for Henry's birthday. The latest addition to the Sekeping family is a glass and concrete treehouse in newly rejuvenated Kong Heng Square, the heart of Ipoh Old Town's revival. The 3 storey neo-classical building was once a hostel for theatre performers who performed in the adjacent theatre building that was burnt down in the 50s. True to the spirit of celebrating Ipoh's rich heritage and history, Sekeping Kong Heng has preserved as much of the character of the existing building as possible - evident in details like reclaimed colonial shop windows used for the rooms. The result is edgy and hip yet respectful to its surroundings' history: an exhibit you live and breathe - from the heady aroma of white coffee to the cacophony of Cantonese banter between hawkers - in a real Old Town setting. 

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A room with a view and a view of a room - seen here is the family room on the first floor which redefines the concept of 'open-plan living'. Sweeping drapes and mosquito nets offer privacy and respite from the elements, while Sekeping Kong Heng's verdant surroundings help keep the air cool.

Sekeping Kong Heng is not for the sedentary. The place is no-frills with steep, narrow concrete and metal stairs the only form of access to throughout. The treehouse provides four bicycles for guests, all the better to battle the bulge with especially given the hotel's proximity to some of Ipoh's best street food.

The communal area is the very manifestation of 'treehouse fantasy'. There's the air of relaxation of course, with hammocks and bean bags strewn casually about but also the social aspect with nooks (perfect for board games) and the swimming pool on the rooftop of the adjacent block.

Source

ROOM 1, STANDARD DOUBLE / FROM RM230 PER NIGHT

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Exposed, chipped concrete softened by floor-to-ceiling linen drapes. Patina-stained wooden planks and colonial window shutters reclaimed but unrestored. Inadvertently on-trend copper bath fittings. All of these minimalist design elements come together to create a raw vision of industrial chic, albeit one without pretension. The only obvious luxury my room offered was air-conditioning. Yet, this decadent lush never once found herself wanting for anything - not even when the sounds and smells of the cafés and restaurants downstairs wafted through into my first floor-room. On the contrary, I found my stay all the more authentic - Old Town living at its best.

Sekeping Kong Heng combines an immersive experience of Ipoh Old Town and my Lost Boys dream in one industrial-chic, pocket-friendly, and centrally-located package. With rooms starting from RM80 - RM800 per night, I would describe Sekeping Kong Heng as an 'urban Peter Pan' experience at hostel prices. Throw in its unbeatable location right in the middle of Kong Heng Square plus industrial-style decor inspiration all around, and you've got a winner.

SEKEPING RETREATS | SEKEPING KONG HENG

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Birthday Babies

February 15, 2016, 9:08 pm

≫ Next: Ipoh Bites - Where To Eat In Ipoh Old Town

≪ Previous: Sekeping Kong Heng, Ipoh

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SCENES FROM THE WEEKEND: 1 PENTHOUSE + 2 BIRTHDAY BABIES = ONE HELL OF A PARTY

Hello! How was your Valentine's Day weekend? I daresay that at least 20 people in Kuala Lumpur - myself included - are still recovering from mine! True to tradition, I hosted a real knees up of a festive chimera - a Chinese New Year meets Valentine's Day weekend meets birthday party - at mine for my two favourite people, my bestie Michiekins and my baobei Henry. Michiekins' birthday falls on 13th February (Valentine's Day Eve!) and Henry's is on the first day of The Year Of The Monkey - I didn't need a geomancer or Feng Shui master to tell me that the weekend past was most fortuitous for one of my legendary penthouse parties! Besides, you know us...any excuse for a soiree chez moi... 

Let's start backwards, with scenes from the party aftermath on the morning of St Valentine's Day...

Michiekins and Henry mixing up their balloons.
You would too, if you were there the night before.

Henry surveying his spoils like a bird of prey. Believe me when I say he drank what seemed like all of the empties on that table.

Some of Michiekins' birthday swag.

Meow! Being a cat, Henry needs to sniff everything including Michiekins' presents.

Let's wind the clock back to the night of the party, before the place turned topsy turvy and the penthouse was still pristine...

The theme for the party was 'Black Tie & Golden Girls': a sort of Art Deco-Great Gatsby-Guys & Dolls-Bond mash up that some of the guests sort of adhered to (this is Malaysia, where being casually underdressed is de rigeur - with some exceptions like the Malaysia Tatler Ball). The birthday boy and girl wore white because they're such special snowflakes, naturally. Myself, I just about managed to slip myself into this golden number after spending the whole day zipping up town sourcing out props and decor plus setting up the penthouse for the party. I think I used up my DIY quota on the dessert table alone...

Easy cake pop cheat - those golden cake pops are actually Ferrero Rocher chocolate wrapped in a icing and edible gold paint.

Completing my look with my signature red lipstick...

...only to have it rubbed off by my amorous birthday boy.

Love is messy, but then you find the person worth smudging your £20 CHANEL lipstick for. 

Any diehard lipstick enthusiast, like yours truly, will tell you that's love. 

Birthday girl Michiekins (in white) with baby Mika and her posse (in black and gold, naturally).

Plastic knife fight! Birthday girl and birthday boy Battle Royale.

The party truly begins when I change out of my high heels and dress into a dressing gown and hotel slippers. 

All the better for competing in the games - musical chairs, gambling, fireworks...

...and my new favourite, the 'newspaper game'!

Pick a partner. You start by standing on a single sheet of newspaper. Each turn, the newspaper is folded in half and you both have to find creative ways to stay on it without touching the floor! Piggyback rides, yoga poses, contortions ensue...

Oh! I have to tell you all about the best 'WTF' moment from the night:

 So I rang the front desk just after midnight and shouted through the din of the party: 

"Helloooo it's me! Could you please send up a newspaper?" (for the newspaper game)

"Certainly, m'aam! I shall have it arranged with the duty manager." 

Me (confused - all that effort for a newspaper?) "Much obliged!"

One hour later, the door bell rings.

And these two blokes are standing outside my suite with a heaving black leather sofa.

"Here is your new sofa, ma'am!"

Me: "I asked for a NEWSPAPER not a new sofa!!!"

At least the new sofa came in handy for disco naps and for overnight guests. Well, that's a silver black lining...

How was your Valentine's weekend? Did you get up to any shenanigans?

x

Ipoh Bites - Where To Eat In Ipoh Old Town

February 20, 2016, 12:53 am

≫ Next: Idaman House at Janda Baik, Pahang

≪ Previous: Birthday Babies

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What to eat & drink in Ipoh that isn't chicken rice or Old Town coffee

While I'm all about the adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" - or rather "I'll fix it if I only need to use duct tape or WD40" - I am not at all adverse to introducing crazy newfangled ideas to areas where the classics have already stood the test of time. So, in the spirit of the 'something old, something new' of Ipoh Old Town's new retro revival and the 'modern treehouse meets historical house of decadence' of Sekeping Kong Heng, I'm rounding up my Ipoh blog posts with five alternative eateries beyond the city's already-established street food and hawker stalls. 

This delightful eatery, which also shares its space with a craft shop selling hand stitched leather goods in a dizzying array of colours, occupies a colonial-era building with a whimsical garland strewed tree in the front. Happily, Burps & Giggles has substance to match its style - the menu is as eclectic as the decor (curry chicken pasties topped with pear salad jostle for attention alongside ice-creams with distinctly Malaysian twists - gula melaka and lychee, anyone?) yet even the more straightforward dishes like a classic hamburger doesn't fail to elicit, well, burps and giggles. 

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If you like your classic Malaysian dishes served with a side of shabby chic decor, you'd be missing your marbles not to check out this charming little place. Blink and you'll miss it - Missing Marbles is tucked away behind a wall of ivy crowding over former optical store Syarikat Cermin Mata Star. The restaurant is small but there's plenty to see, least of all the marbles dotted about the place for you to find. I had a Malaysian classic - nasi lemak with fried chicken - and enjoyed glimpses of Kong Heng Square through the back of the café where I watched scenes of Old Town life play out.

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Throughout restaurants and cafés in Old Town you'll see signs saying "No Ice Ball" - either chiding you for even thinking of bringing in that dripping mess of a dessert or declaring that no, we don't serve that Ipoh classic. If anything, it piques curiosity about this mysterious sphere-like entity - what is this elusive, dreaded ice ball? What it says on the cover, really - shaved ice rolled into a ball, flavoured with sticky syrup and eaten out of brown waxed paper. A great place to try this sweet sensation is at Bits & Bobs in Kong Heng square, where ice snacks like Bandung Giler and Ms Sparkles have been served 'sejak selalu' (since forever).

Read more about Kong Heng Square: The New Old - The Retro Revival of Ipoh

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Is a slick New York bistro meets Australian café from the BIG Group a tad too ambitious for laid-back Ipoh? Some would say so, but I think Plan B brings an interesting contrast to weathered, historical Kong Heng Square with its shiny industrial chic setting. Even with dirt-cheap and delicious hawker fare about, Plan B's relatively expensive fusion pasta dishes seem to go down a treat - the place is always buzzing even in the late hours of the evening. Hint: iced Australian coffee is smashing with soft shell crab tortellini.

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If it's bohemian vibes you're after, you could do far worse than to check in at an 'art stay' at The Happy 8 in Old Town. In keeping with the organic decor their café offers simple, healthy fare. Unfortunately while the surroundings are sumptuous and inspired, the menu does not enjoy the same attention to detail. The food is fine, but when you consider the abundance of culinary offerings in the immediate area, The Happy 8 café doesn't seem like the first choice. I'd like to see the menu reworked with the same creativity and imagination applied to the hotel. In the mean time The Happy 8 is a great place for drinks - the dragonfruit smoothie was lovely - in absolutely charming settings.

Read the rest of my blog posts on Ipoh, Malaysia:

Luxury lakeside living at The Haven: Ipoh, Malaysia

The New Old: the Retro Revival of Ipoh, Malaysia

Sekeping Kong Heng, Ipoh

Idaman House at Janda Baik, Pahang

February 21, 2016, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Fartypants

≪ Previous: Ipoh Bites - Where To Eat In Ipoh Old Town

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THE SIMPLE LIFE AMIDST THE RAINFOREST TREETOPS OF JANDA BAIK, PAHANG

Idaman (Malay, Indonesian) - n. ideal, craving, desire. 
How wonderfully fitting, as Idaman House was my family's choice for a weekend of fresh forest air.
The Malay kampong (village) of Janda Baik - literally 'the good widow' - is, according to local folklore, named after a kindly widow of local folklore who tended to a wounded mercenary passing through the town. My party of ten enjoyed similar hospitality - a 5-bedroom villa in the mountains tended to by a staff of three who took care of our every need, leaving us free to relax and enjoy our verdant surroundings.

With an elevation of up to 4500 feet above sea level, a population of 1000, and a refreshing climate of 23° - 28°Celsius in the day, the sleepy town of Janda Baik is a world apart from Kuala Lumpur. Here, the rumble of traffic is replaced by the calls of cicadas and one shares a backyard - the forest - with endangered species like Malayan tigers, clouded leopards, and dusky leaf monkeys which we spotted from the vantage point of our villa's many balconies (four) and our treehouse. 

We also shared our non-chlorinated swimming pool with a few frogs, thankfully of the non-venomous kind.

Above; the formal living room, and below; the formal dining room.

A short stay at Idaman House is the much-needed antidote to the hustle and bustle of city living. The three-storey, five bedroom house is perfect for families - my parents domineered the tastefully minimalist master bedroom that you see in the photos while the rest of the couples in my extended family occupied the double bedrooms on the other two floors. I was perfectly contend with the lowest ground floor with its own colonial Spanish style living room that led to our 'backyard' - the jungle with its own treehouse, swimming pool, and a huge veranda where the family gathered for a barbecue dinner under the stars. The house was the perfect retreat, large enough to disappear from the rest of the party yet with plenty of communal areas to gather for karaoke, mahjong, and family time. My favourite thing about Idaman House? Natural air-conditioning - we only had to open the large windows and let the fresh mountain air in to keep us cool. The simple life, indeed...

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Read more of my Malaysian treehouse fantasies and villa escapades:

A 10-bedroom villa in Redang, Malaysia:Eat. Sleep. Swim. Read. Repeat

An urban treehouse in Ipoh's historical Old Town: Sekeping Kong Heng

An organic wellness resort on Berjaya Hill: Chiggas In Chateau (one) and (two)

A hut in the National Park: Rainforest Rumble, Part 1

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Fartypants

February 23, 2016, 11:38 pm

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Eye see you over there baby, shaking that thang…

(See more Knitwittery here and here) 

Flatutent leather culottes! Questionable tan lines! Sequinned eyes on the world’s most impractical compact satchel! That’s what you get when you combine jet lag and Shoreditch douchebagg-ery because this sort of award-winning ensemble should be best left to the clamourers outside Somerset House this time of year, the pages of Grazia, and fashion blogs. There’s a disconcerting breeze around my shins - and not just because my leather culottes make the most embarrassingly realistic fart noises when I walk (it’s my trousers, guys, I SWEAR) - yet my top half is toastier than the Brick Lane bagel shop. My ankle boots cover my weird ankle tan lines from Malaysia but not the remnants of my gold flash tattoos (which now look like odd scabs on my shins, ugh). Also, my handbag is as adequately-sized as my self-awareness is ample (in other words, not at all).  

And this, kids, is why you don’t attempt any sort of sartorial statement right after landing in London at four in the morning after a 13 hour flight.   

At least this hot mess kinda sorta photographs well…? No? Yes?  

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HENRY RIDLEY-COOK. QUESTIONABLE SARTORIAL CHOICES ALL MINE.

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Cigarettes and vainglory, the breakfast of champions. 

The real champion here is Henry. As soon as our plane took off, the style maverick changed into his pyjamas - a groundbreaking outfit of Moroccan purple kaftan with gold embroidery and a silk brocade Chinese dressing gown with more gold embroidery (dragons, naturally). God, I should be blogging that…

The moment our plane hit the tarmac at Heathrow, yesterday morning at six, Henry and I hit the ground running. After a relaxed couple hours of unpacking, we headed to nearby Geffrye Museum in Shoreditch for some interiors inspiration. This well-laid out gem of a museum is an exploration of homes from 1600 to present day. With eleven elaborate, authentic period rooms, the exhibits are lovely little glimpses of life from ages past. London has a wonderfully democratic approach to education with most of her galleries and museums free to visit, and the Geffreye is no different - although I would happily pay £4 to see their restored almhouse from the 1700s. Absolutely worth a trip even if you're not a huge fan of history and home - the herb garden is absolutely charming in summer.

And what of this bedazzled Hermes Kelly-rip off I'm sporting? Funny you ask - hot Korean label PLAYNOMORE champions 'Fake for Fun' with their signature doe eyes sequinned all over Hermes-shaped handbags. I couldn't decide if their delightfully childish satchels were deliciously tacky or just terrible, so to be sure I went and bought three. 

This one, in mint, is my favourite.

If there is one positive side effect of jet lag (aside that it's the perfect 'get out of jail free card' - "I can't do lunch/yoga/coherence! I'm jet lagged!) it's that it resets my seriously messed-up body clock. Nocturnal doesn't even come close to describing my waking/sleeping pattern - try crepuscular. Yes, I'm a hamster - I'm most awake before dawn and after dusk. Believe me when I say that in ten years of living in London I can count on both hands the occasions that I've risen naturally at a respectable hour ie. between the hours of seven and eight a.m. But Monday evening's was so perfectly timed - the plane left Kuala Lumpur at 11pm local time, which gave me a decent night's sleep before waking up at 4am London time to land at 6am. By the time I reached my digs in Shoreditch and got dressed it was a very reasonable 8am, and so as of yesterday I've been fighting the urge to nap and running around London like a *gasp* productive person! Hold the phone, I went to bed at ten. TEN.

Who else here loves jet lag, flying long haul, childish 'cartoony' handbags, and fartypants? 

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Instagram Wife

February 25, 2016, 12:00 am

≫ Next: What’s In My Makeup Bag - My 17 Luxury & Drugstore Beauty Essentials

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Shoot others as you would have them shoot you

Maybe my shooter of choice - Canon 6D, 85mm f1.8 (see the contents of my camera bag here) - elicits less knee-jerk reactions than Henry’s arsenal of AK-47, PPSH, and Mosin Nagan; but I’m a sharp shooter all the same. It’s a widely-accepted opinion that the formula for successful fashion blog/Instagram = photogenic girl + well managed eating disorder + credit card + photographer boyfriend. Hence the rise of the ‘Instagram Husband’ - that oft unmentioned accessory in the ‘Shop the post/Buy the look here’ section in, like, every fashion blog ever.  

So in the interest of gender equality - and I don’t mean jumping on the OMG FEMINIST bandwagon - I thought I’d share with you how mine and Henry’s relationship goes both ways. Yes, he does follow me around and takes marvellous photos of me for my blog but I also happily return the favour. Because like body pleasure, stoking the flames of vainglory is so much more fun when you have a partner. 

Here are some photos I took of my Instagram Husband bearing arms in Wanstead Park, because every healthy relationship should also have an Instagram Wife. 

PHOTOGRAPH & EDIT BY POSH, BROKE, & BORED
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Henry is wearing/bearing: Australian army hat, waxed coat, Civil Defense band, British Army officer boots, and AK-47 (all available in-store at our East London boutique Regimental Vintage).

London is famously green, with a wealth of public parks on every corner. Wanstead Park is a world apart from the relatively-manicured lawns of Hyde Park, with its 140 acres bearing the appearance of a wild forest so synonymous with the English countryside. Yet, Wanstead Park was once a sculpted landscape surrounding  medieval Wanstead Manor which was often compared to Blenheim Palace. Today, Wanstead Park is a Grade II listed municipal park incorporated by Epping Forest. The remains of The Grotto, originally designed as an ornamental boathouse, is a beautiful example of 18th Century garden landscaping. Wanstead Park is a wonderful place to get lost in for hours with one’s dog, especially in springtime for its famous bluebells in Chalet Wood near the Temple.

If you like the visual style of this blog post and like to replicate it for yourself, read my 10 (Actually Helpful) Tips on Outdoor Photography. 

Do you practise what you preach on feminism and gender equality? Or do you think your boyfriend should be grateful to follow you around with a camera in exchange for your own personal gain? Are you an Instagram Husband and want support? Call 1800-SHOOT-ME-NOW.

What’s In My Makeup Bag - My 17 Luxury & Drugstore Beauty Essentials

February 28, 2016, 11:09 pm

≫ Next: A day at the Retired Greyhound Trust in Brentwood, Essex

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“There are no ugly women, only lazy ones”

‘Ain’t that the truth? You only have to look as far as my ‘morning face’ and compare it with my ‘public face’ to fully appreciate the transformative powers of cosmetics. My close friends jokingly call bare-faced me ‘Maria, Jasiminne’s humble and homely maid’ and love to ask ‘Maria’: “Mana boss kau yang cantik tu?” (Where’s that lovely boss of yours?) to which ‘Maria’ would reply: “Puan sedang sibuk, ma’am. Dia datang sebentar lagi, sila tunggu sekejap. Nak minum apa, ma’am?” (Madam Jasiminne is busy but she will be here presently. Would you like a drink while you wait?) Yeah, I have great friends. *furtive glance*

I don’t know if it’s heartening or depressing that the only things standing between me and ‘Maria’ are 17 beauty products. My makeup is a mix of high-end and drugstore, which I source from the Three Ss: Sephora, Selfridges, Sasa.  

For a flawless face, I start with Laneige BB Cushion for a light and even coverage in place of foundation. Cle de Peau’s miracle concealer erases the dark circle under my eyes, which I then set with Bourjois Java Rice powder using a Kabuki brush. I swear by Nars ‘Orgasm’ for a healthy ‘just did it’ glow on my cheeks followed by a dusting of Laura Mercier bronzer to accentuate my cheekbones and contour my diamond-shaped face to balance out my narrow forehead (stupid tiny hairline…). I’ve recently discovered the much-raved about Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow Pomade and how it’s basically sweat-proof, rub-proof, water-proof - perfect for wet, humid climates. My eye palette du jour is the limited edition Tortoiseshell by Bobbi Brown. I favour a superfine liquid eyeliner - right now I'm using Super Sharp Spider Line by Kate - for my signature cat-eye flick. The same eyelash curler has been in my makeup bag for years, the iconic Shu Uemura curler in gold. The only mascara that seems to work on my poker-straight Asian eyelashes are these Japanese drugstore wonders from Heroine Make - I start with two layers of Long & Curl followed by a couple coats of Volume & Curl. I have full lips that tend to dehydrate very quickly especially when I’m wearing lipstick, so a generous base of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Lip is a must. Despite my dozen-strong collection of lip colour I find myself returning to the same two shades - N101 Lacy Mauve by Avon and La Fascinante from Chanel’s Rouge Allure collection. Finally, to illuminate my face I use either Cle de Peau Face Enhancer or Dior Diorific Illuminating Powder under my eyes, on my browbone, and just a subtle dab on my t-zone. 

Now if you’ll excuse me, Maria needs to put on her face - Puan Jasiminne’s friends are asking for her…

What’s in your makeup bag? 

Do you think 17 cosmetics are excessive or practically minimal? 

Have your friends ever mistaken your un-made up self for the help?

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A day at the Retired Greyhound Trust in Brentwood, Essex

March 2, 2016, 12:00 am

≫ Next: Interiors: My Blogging Nook

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(and they won’t judge you for being unfit either, because they can be lazy too)

“GALLYYYYY!!!!” Henry will scream whenever he sees a greyhound, after his late dog ‘Suzy Gally’ - the retired racer his family adopted. I’ve lost count of a) the number of occasions he will drop everything he’s doing to rush over and pat a complete stranger’s greyhound, b) the many times he’s waxed lyrical about greyhounds are the best dogs ever and c) his laments about how these gentle creatures are often abandoned, sometimes abused, by their owners once their track careers are over. Myself, I was never a greyhound enthusiast - until recently I always thought of them as strange, spindly alien-like creatures (albeit ones with killer figures - Wasp waists! Long slender legs!).

My boyfriend is the kind of man who puts his money where his mouth is, so on Monday Henry and I made the trek from London to Brentwood, Essex to volunteer at the local branch of the Retired Greyhounds Trust. It’s a noble cause that is very close to Henry’s heart, and being a dog lover myself I wanted to see for myself why greyhounds are such special, wonderful animals that deserve a second chance when their racing days are over.

We arrived at the kennels in the Essex suburb of Pilgrims Hatch to the cacophony of passionate barking. Dozens and dozens of greyhounds (we soon discovered that there were fifty dogs) poked their noses through the doors of their kennels, wagging their tails with such helicopter-like velocity I feared that they would take off and smash through the roof. The excited dogs, thrilled at the prospect of their daily walks, started springing up six feet in the air like Jacks in The Box - I wonder if they knew that it was Leap Day? The staff, all of them volunteers, were obviously very much in love with their dogs and eager to share with us their charges’ quirks, anecdotes, and histories. The Retired Greyhound Trust, we soon learned, was founded in 1975 as a ‘second chance saloon’ for retired greyhounds seeking loving forever homes. With a network of over 70 branches across Britain and run by over 1,000 dedicated volunteers, the national charity is very much a labour of love.

Henry and I were given a greyhound each to walk around the paddock. I was paired with the most patient gentleman, a black and white fellow by the name of Connor. Even when my poorly-chosen boots got stuck in the mud and I had to halt the walk several times to free myself (why, oh why didn’t I wear my Hunters?) Connor would most obligingly humour me as I struggled to extract myself from the mire. And they say chivalry is dead… It’s a shame that these pictures don’t do justice to Connor and the greyhounds’ mild-mannered nature especially when they are wearing muzzles which is only a precaution against a very unlikely scenario, as the breed is not known to be vicious. Rare is the greyhound owner that knows their dog to ever display aggression - you would be more likely to be mauled by a pigeon.

In fact, the lady in the red coat - a black beauty named Lisa - was that rare exception of boisterous greyhound. The worst she did was try to walk ahead occasionally when something exceptional caught her attention, and when she repeatedly poked my camera lens with her nose because she was so fascinated by the clicking shutter.

FUN FACTS ABOUT GREYHOUNDS:  

The greyhound is the one of the oldest pedigrees, and the only dog to be mentioned by name in the Bible, as one of the "four things stately" in Proverbs 30:31. 

 Greyhounds were the dogs of the aristocracy. Since the breed’s post-medieval revival, only nobles could own greyhounds - any commoner caught owning one would literally be ‘in the doghouse’. In the 10th century, King Howel of Wales made killing a greyhound tantamount to murder, and therefore punishable by death. 

For an animal that is in the Top 10 of the world’s fastest land mammals and the world’s fastest dog, greyhounds are notoriously lazy. Ask any greyhound owner - the dogs seem to sleep 80% of the time. Apart from their daily walks (preferably in a fenced area like a dog park) when they burst into astonishing speeds, you would never guess that these loveable couch potatoes are the Ferrari of the dog world. 

For that reason, and also that they are hypoallergenic and shed very little, greyhounds are apartment-friendly - all they need is at least two walks a day to keep them happy (and a nice, fluffy dog bed for their 18 hours a day-naps). 

Greyhounds tend to be very placid in nature. They’re not the breed of dog that will jump up on every stranger they meet who shows them attention - 99.9% of greyhounds I pat will quietly enjoy the attention, standing still and blinking slowly with a polite curiosity. 

Here’s my observation - they look and walk like deer with their spindly legs, gentle tip-toe gait, and their incredible agility. A greyhound’s head is also the same size and shape of a slice of pizza; as Henry, Suzy Gally, and a certain slice of margarita pizza will tell you. 

Almost all rescue greyhounds are used to people because they have been handled on race tracks by many different people and also volunteers at rehoming kennels. Many greyhounds are good with other dogs and cats, and to be sure, a greyhound will be given the ‘cat-and-other pets test’ to see if they are suited to specific households. 

Henry’s greyhound passed the cat test. In fact his cats ended up bossing her around, like smacking her bottom when she moved too slowly. Suzy Gally thought she was a cat - she tried to follow Spike the Cat through the cat flap, and was confused/disappointed when only her head fit through to be met by the judgemental and bemused gaze of her feline superior.

Unintentionally hilarious pony placement #1 - Say hello to Jasiminne the Centaur. Divination abilities sold separately.

Unintentionally hilarious pony placement #2 - Waiter, there’s a horse on my dog’s back!

Thanks a lot, ponies, for photobombing my pictures.

I AM/SHOULD BE WEARING:

As wonderfully selfless as the Retired Greyhound Trust is, it is for very sad reasons that the trust exists in the first place. A greyhound’s racing career is short-lived and by the time the dog is aged 4-6 it is retired. Many uncaring owners simply abandon their loyal servants and move on raising the next puppy who will make them more money. Irish racers have both ears tattooed with serial numbers to identify them, and this is why there have been reported cases of abandoned greyhounds found with both ears cut clean off so as not to incriminate their human abusers. The relatively luckier ones are sent to Retired Greyhound Trust branches around the country, but even so most branches have a waiting list so for every dog that makes it to the kennels, there are several others waiting in dog limbo.

I find it depressing and infuriating that there hundreds, maybe thousands of greyhounds across the country kicked out of hearth and home simply because their owners decide that their value begin and ends with how much money these loving dogs will make them at the tracks! Haven’t they heard that a dog is for life, not just for Christmas racing season? It’s somewhat heartening to know that despite the abuse and neglect that some of these dogs have suffered, none of the greyhounds seem to have a chip on their shoulder. Each and every dog at the Brentwood branch were as pleased as punch for the attention they receive from the good people at the kennels. Even so, these gentle hounds deserve forever homes. Happily, more and more people are adopting rescue greyhounds because they make such wonderful, calm, and loving pets with the additional bonus of already being housetrained, socialised with people, and having been vaccinated. 

The Retired Greyhound Trust is run entirely on the generosity of people, whether it be donations of goods and money or volunteers taking the time to walk the dogs. Even if you, like Henry and I, don’t have time for a full-time dog, you are very welcome to meet these sweet creatures at the kennels and take them for a spin - be warned, unless you have a heart of stone you will almost definitely fall in love with at least one of these adorable pups… 

Learn more about the Retired Greyhound Trust and their tireless cause to find homes for these lovely dogs. 

Henry and I visited the branch in Brentwood, Essex but you can find the list of their many branches nationwide, here.

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After a long morning spent with the greyhounds at Pilgrims Hatch, Henry and I needed a much-deserved refuel before our train ride back to London. I suggested The Brentwood Kitchen - a colourful, wholesome eatery on the high street that’s on the lips of all the locals (in more ways than one!). The Brentwood Kitchen is all wholesome goodness - from the homemade food lovingly prepared using local ingredients and charming, eclectic decor that looks like a Pinterest dream. I wish I could have taken more photos of the place but I kept my camera somewhat restrained as The Brentwood Kitchen was full of mothers and their children. No wonder, as the place was “born out of a desire for parents to have somewhere nice to eat with their children”. As someone who’s best friend has recently become a mother, I really appreciate a restaurant who pays attention to not just the food and ambience but also their customer’s needs! 

To make up for my lack of photos of The Brentwood Kitchen decor, here’s a peace offering - a DSLR selfie.

Because once you go full-frame, you never go back to front-facing smartphone camera. 

Between the both of us Henry and I put away a stack of American pancakes with berry compote and cream, nachos with chilli, and a pile of avocado and salsa on ciabatta. The food was delicious and simple, the ambience was friendly and welcoming (we were given a cup of tea on the house by way of apology for waiting for our meal), but the most pleasant surprise were the prices - only £30 for three dishes and two drinks, which is practically unheard of in London!

To round up our day in Brentwood, both at the Retired Greyhounds Trust and lunch afterward, here’s one of my favourite Simpsons scenes featuring greyhounds and food blogging:

Do you have a greyhound?
Would you consider adopting a retired racer from the Retired Greyhounds Trust?
Do you like your food “chewy”?

Interiors: My Blogging Nook

March 3, 2016, 11:13 pm

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Navigating the culture of 'Do It Your Damn Self, You’re A Grown*ss Woman'.

MY CONTRIBUTION TO THIS MONTH'S TRAVEL BLOGGER LINK UP

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Before I share with you photos of my blogging nook in my London home, I’d like to tell you the story of how it took 10 years and a continent apart for me to learn how to fend for myself.

“I’m moving out! Free at last! Oh, wait…”

Spring 2006. The acceptance letters had come in - from Parsons (School of Design) in New York City to Central Saint Martins in London. For a 19 year old Malaysian born and bred in Kuala Lumpur who’d never lived away from home, these acceptance letters were more than an invitation to study in some of the world’s most prestigious art colleges - they were a ticket out of a country where dreams of being an artist were met with a dismissive: “Oh, so you’re going to be a caricaturist pandering to tourists in Pasar Seni…good luck with that.” Those acceptance letters were a magic carpet to an exciting new life in an exotic new place (how many Malaysians dream of studying in the UK and the US?) - most of all, they were a stairway to independence. But despite the good Tunku Abdul Rahman’s efforts, even as a free Malaysian I was about as ‘Merdeka!’ (independent) as the Screamapillar. I may not be sexually attracted to fire, but without constant reassurance I could quite possibly die. Believe me when I say that I had no life skills - I couldn’t cook nor clean. I had never taken public transport and until I got my first car at age 18 I would travel everywhere chaperoned by my driver. I’d never paid a bill, renewed my passport or applied for visas on my own - I had a secretary who’d take care of that.

Then in September 2006, I packed my considerable bags and moved to London in pursuit of of education. I enrolled at Central Saint Martins but once the initial thrill (and jet lag) faded I was faced with the realisation that I was in a foreign country in a different continent - with no family, no friends, and most dauntingly, no staff. My parents joked that I would die of thirst because I’d ring and ring and ring but no-one would bring me a glass of water, which in hindsight is hilarious but at the time, the fear was real. 

“Am I going to die under a mountain of Snickers wrappers?”

I chose to live in student accommodation - Queen Alexandra’s House in South Kensington next to the Royal Albert Hall - to ease myself into independent living. When I was not busy finding wilder and more pretentious ways to impress my tutors, every other moment seemed to be filled with navigating the oddities I called my dorm mates - neurotic ballerinas who’d scream and fling their yogurt across the room at your head for obstructing the TV, poshos and aristocrats affecting ‘ghetto-isms’, and crazy foreigners who did their weekly grocery shop at Harrods (oh wait, that last one was me). Naturally, I learnt no such life skills from that balanced bunch. As you can imagine, I lived in squalor for years. Although I did invent a great system for laundry: dirty clothes on the floor, clean clothes on the bed. 

 I only really learned to be house proud at age 25, when I finally bought my first London flat. I then very quickly learned how to clean, cook, decorate, and run a household. Suddenly, Method and Ecover were my best friends! Today, I’m unafraid to unplug a shower drain and scrub the loos (fine, my boyfriend does those) nor is my laundry routine hang, Febreeze, wear. In fact, laundry time is now my moment of meditation - I love zoning out to the repetition of hanging clothes, arranged by colour. What else have I learnt in the way of housekeeping? 1) Fresh flowers from the market always makes the house seem cleaner than it is. Fact. 2) I can cook! I regularly bake cakes for myself and cooking healthy, creative dinners for Henry and I is my regular evening activity. I know how to pay my bills! Apply for a mortgage! Rewire a light!(Not yet, ouch) 

It’s been a ten year journey from hopeless to handy. For me to become an emancipated, independent woman who isn’t afraid to get her hands dirty and get on with it. Coincidentally, 2016 is the year I become a naturalised British citizen (!!) Although I will just probably choose Permanent Residence because I don’t want to give up my Malaysian citizenship. It’s nice to have more than one country to call home, and besides I’ve gotten rather fond of London.

As a shopkeeper and lifestyle blogger I tend to divide my working hours between two places: my East London boutique Regimental Vintage and my Shoreditch home. I recently carved a little niche in the sunny living room of my flat and made it into my 'blogging nook'! It's right in the middle of what I call 'my magic triangle' - between the living room (for occasional naps), kitchen (for frequent snack breaks), and the dining room - so as far as I'm concerned the 'blogging nook' is my power spot.

The decor of my flat is modern and minimal which isn't quite where I see my style in the future - I tend to lean toward New Traditional. So to make the space feel more personal (until I get the forever home of my dreams - a Victorian/Edwardian townhouse!) I accessorise with objects I can take with me when I move: sheepskin and cowhide rugs, butterflies, marble slabs and plants to bring some green indoors. Those 5 things alone more or less sum up the extend of my enthusiasm for nature...oh, wait, add wood floors to that formula...

Do you have a power spot in your home?
Have you carved out a blogging nook, or is it wherever the wifi signal is the strongest/whichever surface is the comfiest?
Do you even blog or have a 'real job'? Because sometimes I forget that that's not the only 'profession' in the world...

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Public Nudity

March 6, 2016, 2:28 am

≫ Next: Arriving in Edinburgh: The Scotsman Hotel

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Taking my latest buy for a spin in Arnold Circus, Shoreditch

It’s sunny! It’s snowy! It’s freezing! It’s balmy! Either the weather is off her meds or London is blessing us with bouts of sunshine to apologise for the sudden balls-cold spell that hit us earlier this week It’s almost as though she realised that winter is nearly over and decided to go all-out before the curtain falls, but still - no snow (the weather will probably go all Arendelle on us this June, just you wait). How the devil are we supposed to dress for this bipolar climate, though? Do we store the furs and bring out the trench coats? Eschew black for sunnier shades? Luckily for me, I’ve already got my spring capsule wardrobe sorted and the answer is: nudes. Nudes are always the answer.

Source

The red-bricked Victorian buildings of Boundary Estate has always evoked for me a sort of nostalgia and curiosity especially when viewed as a panorama from the bandstand of Arnold Circus. A little bit of digging into East End history revealed a fascinating story of the Victorian social experiment that changed Britain. Arnold Circus is the heart of the country’s first council estate, Boundary Estate, inaugurated in 1896. The 19th century estate was designed to elevate the slum and its feared underclass to a self-respecting community - from its deliberate lack of pubs to design details like the pattern of the brickwork to evoke a sense of pride and aspiration.  

That makes Boundary Estate the first example of gentrification in Shoreditch, and Arnold Circus the heart of the catalyst of East London’s increasing desirability. No wonder I feel so at home in Arnold Circus as I observe trendy East London from every angle - Shoreditch House yonder, fashionable Redchurch Street on one side, and Shoreditch High Street on the other.

Waxing lyrical about gentrification aside, I digress, this is supposed to be a post on the latest addition to my spring capsule wardrobe.

I found this beauty of a bucket bag at Zara and it’s the perfect addition to my Spring nudes. Depending on the light, sometimes it looks camel, tan, a creamy shade of peach, or flesh (my boyfriend thinks it looks like a certain part of the male anatomy - that’s men for you) which makes this minimal accessory extremely versatile - especially given that I’ll be wearing mostly various shades of nude tones over the next three months.

Arriving in Edinburgh: The Scotsman Hotel

March 13, 2016, 12:00 am

≫ Next: North Bridge Brasserie at The Scotsman Hotel, Edinburgh

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From history to luxury: a stylish stay at the former headquarters of The Scotsman newspaper 

“The best winters of my childhood were spent in my grandfather’s mansion in The Highlands,” explained my British boyfriend as he puffed his chest with pride, recalling his Scottish ancestry.“I want to show you how beautiful and magical Scotland is, and thought we’d start with Edinburgh.” That’s how I found myself, my hand in Henry’s, standing in the wood panelled lobby of The Scotsman Hotel where we were welcomed by the tantalising smoky scent of the coal fire and beaming staff with the most charming accents. As far as first impressions went, I felt right at home in the capital of Scotland. 

The Scotsman Hotel was no trivial choice - Henry knows how particular I am about where I sleep, having stayed in dozens of lodgings across the world from industrial-chic treehouses to mansions converted into luxury boutique hotels. My Scotsman chose The Scotsman for three very compelling reasons - one: its unbeatable location -positioned on the North Bridge with The Royal Mile on its doorstep, two: the views - it’s the only luxury hotel in the city with views of Edinburgh Castle, the Firth of Forth, Leith, Princes Street and Calton Hill, and three: the history - the century-old building was once The Scotsman newspaper’s offices, with subtle allusions to its heritage found in details like the crossword motif on the hotel teacups. That The Scotsman looked like Hogwarts didn’t hurt, either. In other words - the boy did good.

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The entrance to The Scotsman Hotel is on its fourth floor with a stairway leading to Market Street - which added to its Hogwarts-esque charm (you know, stairs that appear out of nowhere). Parts of Edinburgh seem to float, with the city built on different levels. The Scotsman Hotel, situated on the historic North Bridge, brought to mind a castle perched on craggy cliffs with a sprawling view of the city, arguably one of the best in Edinburgh.

I crossed the grand and imposing threshold of the hotel and stepped into the warm, welcoming hearth. While the building facade is palatial the lobby would be better described as baronial, with decor one associates with the British nobleman’s home: tasteful, classical, and cozy with a restrained elegance one could never deem vulgar. 

If the lobby of The Scotsman Hotel is a solid and dignified older gentleman, then the marble staircase that leads to the other levels of the hotel is his ice-queen lady - with tall, alabaster, and striking looks that compelled your gaze to linger.

The marble corridor led to the hotel’s restaurant North Bridge Brasserie (where I had my virgin meal of haggis - I’ll review my experience tomorrow!) which was a double-height vision of marble columns and handsome wood panels with modern accents of steel: the features of the ‘dignified gentleman lobby’ and ‘his marble corridor wife’, in other words, their child - sporting cool, hip metal accessories.

Not that I got any use out of The Scotsman Spa & Health Club, but it was interesting to know that the 20,000 square foot space was once the Scotsman Newspaper’s printing press. The exclusive health club is a world apart from the old-world charm of the hotel - an underground cavern filled with state of the art equipment and luxury amenities one expects from modern hotels.

Happily, the rooms retain their rustic and rugged charm…!

Henry booked us a room boasting the best view from the hotel. We were adjacent to the penthouse, on the ninth floor, with double-height ceilings and our very own turret that came with its own freestanding bath!

The room is furnished in Harris Tweed, from the satisfyingly heavy curtains to the bed’s moan-inducingly comfortable headboard. Even the sofa and cushions were upholstered in Scotland’s famous export, with a framed swatch of Harris Tweed detailing the history of that particular tweed on the wall, which was a very Scottish and lovely touch - an educational piece of the fabric’s heritage.

Attention to detail: mugs with a crossword motif, a nod to The Scotsman Hotel’s previous incarnation as newspaper headquarters, an Edinburgh edition of Monopoly, and complimentary papers (The Scotsman, naturally).

Our bathroom was lovely enough, but even the marble shower paled in comparison to our ‘bath chamber’…

…a claw-footed tub in our very own turret overlooking the city!

  

But my favourite thing about our room is, by far and large, the incredible view of Edinburgh from our window.

From our vantage point on the ninth floor we could see Prince’s Street, Edinburgh Castle, Calton Hill, and beyond. At our level, we had the best of every world: despite our proximity to traffic-heavy North Bridge we couldn’t hear any noise from the street, the air was fresh and crisp (no doubt the breeze from the hills and the sea reached our turret windows, which we left open in the evenings), and the vista of the city was simply breathtaking. 

All of these serendipitous factors and a bed as invitingly soft as a marshmallow gave me such a good night’s sleep. I had the most vivid dreams in years, alluding to childhood fantasies that awoke a sense of wonder and magic that I had almost forgotten. It may seem strange that I’m referring to my dreams to review my stay at The Scotsman Hotel, but it must be said that if I can recall stories I’ve woven in my sleep from decades past, then the hotel must be doing something right. Either way, my crazy imagination revived is testimony to the magic that seems to be abuzz in Edinburgh…I can absolutely see now how JK Rowling was so inspired to create the world of Harry Potter.

THE SCOTSMAN HOTEL 

20 North Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1TR

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Rates average at £150 per night for a Standard Room. 

I highly recommend the room we stayed in - Room 902.

PHOTOS 7, 14, & 26 COURTESY OF THE SCOTSMAN HOTEL

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Coming attractions: 

Tomorrow I review the hotel's restaurant North Bridge Brasserie and my very first experience of eating haggis!

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North Bridge Brasserie at The Scotsman Hotel, Edinburgh

March 14, 2016, 2:37 am

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≪ Previous: Arriving in Edinburgh: The Scotsman Hotel

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My first haggis at North Bridge Brasserie, Edinburgh

First and last impressions, the opening and the closing act - those are the moments you take away from an event, the souvenirs from a story. The rest is just filler, as some comedians would say. How fortuitous that the standout moments of dinner at North Bridge Brasserie were the alpha and the omega, those winning dishes certainly made for a meal to remember!

“Would you try eating haggis?” smiled my vegetarian Scotsman. “You know it’s sheep’s stomach…” I flicked my hair. “Darling, I’m Chinese. If it flies and isn’t an aeroplane, if it’s got four legs and isn’t a table, if it swims and isn’t a submarine - I’ll eat it.” Not strictly true - I draw the line at chicken feet. But I’d already declared my culinary intrepidness on behalf of the Malaysian-Chinese so I couldn’t let down my team. Happily, I chose the right restaurant for my first foray into trying that quintessential and divisive Scottish dish, haggis.

North Bridge Brasserie is the perfect place to start for a fine-dining experience of Scottish cuisine. Paul Hartley Barber - the young chef de cuisine whose accolades include 3AA Rosettes at renowned Rocca Grill at St Andrews Golf Course, and counts some of the most prestigious chefs in the UK including Albert Roux and Jeff Bland as his colleagues - has already revolutionised the North Bridge Brasserie with his eclectic tasting menu showcasing seasonal, modern Scottish fare with a strong focus on exceptional local ingredients. 

Combined with a well-curated and extensive whisky list - I myself am partial to a good scotch - I couldn’t be more confident that North Bridge Brasserie would serve me an  gourmet experience full of style and surprises.

The decor of North Bridge Brasserie is a serendipitous marriage of mine and Henry’s styles - solid, traditional, earthy, and masculine (much like he is) juxtaposed against the airy, decorative aesthetic I like with soaring, double height ceilings and marble columns. With just the right touch of modern - a spiral steel staircase with famous Scotsman’s names printed on the mirrored steps - the restaurant offered a feast for the eyes to match their sumptuous menu.

Henry and I settled into our elegant surroundings with glasses of Aberlour A’bunadh while we contemplated the menu. While I had already researched the menu beforehand (I’m the sort who checks out the offerings and plan what I’m going to order ahead of visiting a restaurant - call me a thorough blogger or just an enthusiastic eater) and knew exactly what I wanted, Henry being a vegetarian usually rocks up and asks “I don’t eat anything that has a heart, what have you got for me?”. 

As the rest of The Scotsman Hotel staff are, our waitress was very helpful with recommending vegetarian options. Henry plumped for the Cauliflower Velouté with roasted hazelnuts and white truffle oil with a side of parmesan and truffle fries. Both of which he reported as absolutely delightful and a pleasing testament that being vegetarian hardly lessen one’s culinary experience.

Small details are spared no less attention, with complimentary bread rolls (just the right shade of warm) and delightfully soft butter presented on a slab of stone that looks like it could have been carved out Scotland’s famous cliffs.

I embarked on my Scottish culinary adventure with haggis, naturally! Diving into the deep end and all. 

The Scotman’s Haggis with needs and tatties, braised shallot, and whisky sauce was absolutely delicious and surprisingly comforting, which I attribute to its similar texture to cottage pie. The fluffy mashed potato topping added a much appreciated balance to the rich flavours of the haggis and whisky sauce. I honestly had not expected to enjoy my first haggis as much as I did, and here I was savouring every bite and wishing I had ordered only the haggis for my 3-course meal - I couldn’t get enough of it!

My second course was the Highland Beef Tartare with quail egg yolk, sourdough, and watercress followed by a third course of Guinea fowl breast with pastille, almond, and red pepper.

Both classic dishes I’m familiar with, made with exceptionally fresh and locally-sourced Scottish ingredients. I could definitely taste the difference with these dishes compared to similar ones I’ve had elsewhere, and I was all the more grateful to have tried them at the source. Even so, as beautifully presented and skilfully cooked as these lovely dishes were I found myself craving more of that gorgeous haggis I started with! 

It’s official, The Scotsman’s Haggis has spoiled me.

Henry and I ended our meal on a sweet note, and a high one at that.

The bitter chocolate ganache with milk, caramelia, and hazelnut looks every inch the carefully deconstructed pudding I come to expect from a fine-dining restaurant. The flavours and texture of the chocolate ganache were out of this world - thick, rich, and intoxicatingly moreish, with every bite better than the last. Even as my too-loose trousers began to feel uncomfortably snug I couldn’t stop helping myself to more than my share!

I couldn’t have asked for a more wonderful and satisfying introduction to proper Scottish cuisine, nor for a more surprising discovery of the joys of haggis! If you are a haggis virgin, like I was, and in Edinburgh you absolutely must try your first at North Bridge Brasserie - I cannot recommend it enough!   It made me forget about my steak tartare dish which is one of my favourite foods, that’s how good the haggis is. The bitter chocolate ganache pudding is unmissable and is the final flourish to see out a delightful Edinburgh culinary journey.

NORTH BRIDGE BRASSERIE AT THE SCOTSMAN HOTEL, EDINBURGH

I was invited to review North Bridge Brasserie and my meal was complimentary. 

All opinions, as always, are audaciously mine - as were any embarrassing moans of 
“Great Scot, get me more of that haggis ahhhh-mmmmmmm”
PHOTOS 2, 5, & 9 COURTESY OF NORTH BRIDGE BRASSERIE

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Edinburgh Eats

March 17, 2016, 3:25 am

≫ Next: Edinburgh Express: What To See & Do In 48 Hours (Pt. 1)

≪ Previous: North Bridge Brasserie at The Scotsman Hotel, Edinburgh

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7 Places to Eat, Drink, & Be Merry in Edinburgh, Scotland 

Fuel me up, buttercup. Though our trip in Edinburgh be short, this magical capital offered a myriad of sights and thanks to its many slopes all my pavement pounding meant that I was free to sample the city’s smorgasbord of noms. And nom I did - from deep fried Mars Bars,  gourmet Scottish dishes, and copious amounts of Scotch. Follow me, on my short, sweet, but no less illustrious culinary tour of Edinburgh…

The Bow Bar

A compact watering hole whose cozy size belies an astonishingly diverse selection of drinks, boasting, among others, 310 Single Malts and 50 International Bottled Beers. This joint, conveniently located on pastel-pretty Victoria Street just downhill of Edinburgh Castle, is a favourite of locals and the occasional wandering tourist who stumbles off the beaten path (I’m looking at you, The Scotch Whisky Experience) but will turn down hen/stag parties, so expect a merry but not too uncivilised atmosphere. The pies, served from 12-3pm are a bargain - at no more than £4 for a steak & blue cheese or a haggis, cheese and chilli pie. Pop in for a pit stop after descending Edinburgh Castle and to prop your feet up from shopping at Victoria Street.

THE BOW BAR 

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The Devil’s Advocate

Tucked away in Advocates Close in the historical Old Town of Edinburgh, this bar and restaurant has been an Instagram favourite since The Devil’s Advocate transformed an old Victorian pump house into a inadvertently on-trend industrial chic space, complete with mezzanine dining area (all the better to enjoy the sight of the 200 strong whisky shelf). The monthly menu offers seasonal Scottish ingredients grown in the garden nearby, which as per my suggestion will hopefully be open to the public in summer. The cocktails are delicious and delightfully named - I sipped a ‘Rose at St James Place’ (rosemary infused No.3 gin with mandarin, Aperol, honey, lime & soda) - and the food is fresh - Henry and I shared a wild mushroom & tarragon arancini. A lovely lunch spot for the social media enthusiast - how photogenic are the interiors? 

THE DEVIL’S ADVOCATE

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Clam Shell

Ya can nae come to Scotland and not try a deep fried Mars Bar. This sinfully calorific snack (reportedly 600 calories at a pop, yay!) may have ruffled the so-called ‘active, healthy lifestyle’ feathers of the Mars Bar company which is all the more reason to try it at least once in one’s life. Fortunately we didn’t have to travel to Stonehaven, near Aberdeen (where the deep fried Mars Bar is said to be created) to try one - hole in the wall chippy Clam Shell on The Royal Mile will serve up one with a side of ice-cream. Irn Bru recommended, if you want to go all-out Scottish about your snack.

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The Elephant House

Ah, good old coffee shops: the offices of writers, poets, bloggers and Guardian contributors (probably) alike. Our contemporary queen of the written word, JK Rowling, did wonders for The Elephant House who proudly touts its cafe as ‘The Birthplace Of Harry Potter’. Myself, I found the and inspiration to move to the UK partly thanks to the boy wizard’s adventures - naively thinking that all of London looked like Diagon Alley - so as a Potterhead (Team Ravenclaw!) I had to drop in to The Elephant House for breakfast. Arabica coffee, pancakes, and bruschetta with a view of Edinburgh Castle - is it any wonder that this café has evoked some of the greatest muses? A touching tribute to The Boy Who Lived is the graffiti that covers every inch of the bathrooms - my personal favourite being a scrawl right above the toilet reading “This Way To The Ministry Of Magic”.

THE ELEPHANT HOUSE

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The Grain Store

With a quarter of a decade of experience tucked under its belt, the Grain Store has long served fresh local Scottish produce in its atmospheric quarters - a vaulted and alcoved former storeroom on Victoria Street, a stone’s throw from Edinburgh Castle. The Grain Store prides itself as “one of the most romantic restaurants in Edinburgh”, with soft candle light and old stone walls setting a decidedly cozy atmosphere but a lunchtime visit is no less ambient. With a lunch set menu at £14 for 2 courses and £16 for 3 courses, The Grain Store is a great daytime destination for a pocket-friendly sampling of local fare.  

Between us, Henry and I had the home cured salmon, golden cross goats cheese…

…pork belly and leek & mushroom risotto for mains…

…and vanilla panna cotta, and a cheese plate of Dunsyre Blue with homemade oatcakes & crackers for pudding. Thoroughly satisfying comfort food with a touch of gourmet, at incredibly reasonable prices.

THE GRAIN STORE

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North Bridge Brasserie

For a date to impress, look no further than the classical grandeur of North Bridge Brasserie, restaurant of the iconic Scotsman Hotel. It was here that I tried and fell in love with The Scotsman Haggis, whose surprisingly comforting taste, texture, and presentation made me forget about the rest of my equally skilfully-cooked 3 course dinner. Read my full review of North Bridge Brasserie here.

NORTH BRIDGE BRASSERIE

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The Voodoo Rooms

‘So opulent, it’s positively Tsarist’ is how I would describe the interiors of The Voodoo Rooms, with its intricate ceilings and arches that look rather more at home at The Hermitage rather than a pub. This lush cocktail bar, crammed with exotic antiques is a musical hot spot with live music cabaret rooms and events on an almost-nightly basis, from 20’s speakeasies to Blues Clubs. Yet despite it’s award-winning credentials and grand display, the service is warm, friendly, and personable - our wait staff was happy to suggest custom cocktails. Tucked away on a quiet street in the heart of the city centre (just behind the Apple Store) The Voodoo Rooms is a real gem - absolutely unmissable.

THE VOODOO ROOMS

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Coming attractions: Great Scot! How to Do Edinburgh in 48 Hours

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Edinburgh Express: What To See & Do In 48 Hours (Pt. 1)

March 20, 2016, 1:00 am

≫ Next: Tropical Toxic

≪ Previous: Edinburgh Eats

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Make like a Flying Scotsman and

EXPERIENCE EDINBURGH IN 48 HOURS

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Scotland may seem like a landscape of mountains and magic - monsters in the Lochs and Hogwarts castle, for starts - but don't let the mystique surrounding the country intimidate you. Unless you're heading for the Highlands - in which case, pack your walking stick, hip flask, and buddy up with Hagrid. Scotland's cities are very much accessible by foot and their sights easily reached even for prissy urbanites such as yours truly. Case in point: Edinburgh. Though Scotland's capital may be built on different levels - giving this UNESCO site the dreamy appearance of a floating city of clouds - I managed to visit most of Edinburgh's great attractions in just over two days, with little difficulty. That said, all the hill-ascending, close-climbing, and stair-stomping does burn off a great deal of calories - all the better to stuff one's haggis hole with no post-holiday overindulgence-regret-self-flagellation.

 So now you know, there really is no excuse for you to ignore Edinburgh if you are in the immediate vicinity of, um, Europe, especially if - like I am - you're based in London. Getting to Edinburgh has never been easier what with direct trains from Platform 9¾ Kings Cross, although it's actually cheaper to fly there via Easyjet or Ryanair. Either way, you've no reason not to pack your bags and haul ass to Edinburgh for at least a city break, not when I've laid out a guide to seeing the sights and stuffing your haggis hole - all of it easily done in 48 hours. Walking shoes at the ready...

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PHOTOS 14 & 17 BY HENRY RIDLEY-COOK, 25 BY MERCAT TOURS

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I have no doubt that you possess fine taste with an appreciation for both aethestics and history, so naturally you will have checked yourself into The Scotsman Hotel for a room with an unbeatable view of Edinburgh - from your turret with its very own bath, no less. To be sure, ask for Room 902 and don't just take my word for it - see for yourself.

FURTHER READING  - MY REVIEW OF THE SCOTSMAN HOTEL

"Bagged me a piper...!" 
Having snagged yourself a base camp with a prime location on the iconic North Bridge, you'll find yourself mere footsteps from The Royal Mile and inevitably just a few notes away from the evocative strains of the bagpipes. Consider the ever-present tune of Scotland The Brave, the national anthem, your personal soundtrack.
Be warned, the gorgeous sounds of the bagpipes might just make you want to take up the instrument.
My boyfriend is seriously considering buying a set and lessons. God help my neighbours.

Snacks ahoy! Treat yourself to a deep fried Mars Bar with ice-cream (Irn Bru optional) from Clam Shell, 148 High Street.

Don't worry, you'll burn off the 600 calories from all the walking you'll be doing.

 Marvel at the architectural wonder that is St Giles' Cathedral - or as it is properly named 'The High Kirk of Edinburgh'. You'll recognise the church's distinctive and iconic crown steeple from views of Edinburgh's skyline. The 14th century church - extensively restored in the 19th century and protected as a category A listed building - is the principal place of worship of the Church of Scotland in Edinburgh. Dedicated to Saint Giles, the patron saint of Edinburgh, the church has been one of Edinburgh's religious focal points for approximately 900 years. Today, St Giles' Cathedral is regarded as the "Mother Church of Presbyterianism". 

Whether you're religious, atheist, or agnostic you'll more than likely be moved by the the cathedral's beauty - from stained glass windows depicting Scottish saints to the chill-inducing* reverance of the Thistle Chapel.

The Thistle Chapel is the chapel of The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, Scotland's foremost Order of Chivalry.  Built in 1911, designed by Sir Robert Lorimer and tucked away in south-east corner of the church, the chapel is small and exquisite with every nook, cranny, and ceiling filled with extraordinary detailed carvings. A favourite game for visitors is to spot the angel playing bagpipes. The Order was founded by King James VII in 1687 and is an exclusive club of the Scottish monarch and 16 knights. To join their ranks, one has to be personally appointed by a monarch, and the knights tend to be Scots who have made a significant contribution to national or international affairs. Membership priviledges include what must be the most lavish private stall (below) decorated with your insignia plaque of your own design - a certain (now stolen by vandals) plaque depicted a very voluptuous mermaid...

*said chills may also be thanks to the eerily cold temperatures of the chapel, which our guide cheerfully described as 'hypothermia-inducing'.

Fuel up at The Devil's Advocatewith their fresh, monthly menu and inventive seasonal cocktails.

THE DEVIL'S ADVOCATE, 9 ADVOCATES CLOSE

Head over to The Mound for a (free!) few idyllic hours of art at The Scottish National Gallery. 

The neoclassical building, designed by William Henry Playfair, is home to one of the world's finest art collections with 96,000 works in the permanent collection from major works by Titian, and Rembrandt to Picasso and Warhol. 

After your sojourn at The Scottish National Gallery, exit through the cafe then climb the stairs to Princes Street. From there it's a brief walk to CALTON HILL where the view of the city - often depicted in paintings and photographs of Edinburgh - is best seen bathed in the dusky glow of sunset. Don't be daunted by the ascend - the top of the hill looks higher than it is but it only takes about 5 minutes to climb the staircase at Regent Road on the South side. 

A leisurely stroll along the grassy slopes of the hill snakes around a jumble of historic buildings and structures on top including two observatories: the Old Observatory House and the City Observatory...

...an Athenian acropolis (a replica of the Parthenon designed as a memorial to the fallen of the Napoleonic Wars)...

...and Nelson's Monument.

From the top of Calton Hill, watch the light kiss Edinburgh Castle, the cliffs of Salisbury Crags, Arthur's Seat, and the undulating slopes of Holyrood Park as the sun sets on Edinburgh.

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You've earned yourself a scrumptious dinner after all of that walking. Head back to The Scotsman Hotel and embark on a different kind of journey - a culinary adventure. North Bridge Brasserie serves up modern Scottish fare focused on seasonal local ingredients. The Scotsman Haggis is outstanding and the bitter chocolate ganache pudding is a real sweet note to end your meal with. 

FURTHER READING  - MY REVIEW OF NORTH BRIDGE BRASSERIE

"SCARE YOURSELF SLIM, SPOOK YOURSELF SKINNY"

Should you be terrified at the prospect of gaining weight at dinner, here's an aperitif that will freak you into fitness. Book a ghost tour with Mercat Tours and descend into the darkness with an exclusive exploration of Blair Street Underground Vaults. Bloody plots, treason, murder, and horrific deaths - all of it described in grizzly detail by your guide. There are no gimmicks nor actors 'jump scare'-ing - just excellent storytelling to compliment the eerie atmosphere of Edinburgh Old Town. I highly recommended the HIDDEN AND HAUNTED tour that begins at nearby St. Giles Cathedral - it's a fantastic hour long walk that will not only burn the calories but also chill your blood.

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Pat yourself on the back, you've done and seen a great deal on your first day in Edinburgh.

Stay tuned for the second half of Edinburgh Express for tips on what to do with your next 24 hours in Edinburgh!

Tropical Toxic

March 23, 2016, 4:34 am

≫ Next: Edinburgh Express: What To See & Do In 48 Hours (Pt. 2)

≪ Previous: Edinburgh Express: What To See & Do In 48 Hours (Pt. 1)

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SWEATING UP A STORM IN A GIANT TERRARIUM

It's not exactly the sexiest blurb for a photoset on a lifestyle blog which for all intents & purposes is an aspirational read, but then again I'm not one to pull the acrylic over your eyes and call it wool. Since I've already unravelled the typically tightly-wound threads of what bloggers call 'creative license' allow me to make another confession: the moment I get home from a shoot, my gilded trappings come off and the pyjamas come on. 

Vanity-induced discomfort is fleeting, but the internet lives forever. And so, when Henry & I acquired for Regimental Vintage a rare, stunning Hussars military jacket not dissimilar to the one Jimi Hendrix made famous among the fashion-set, what better way to immortalise it than with a photoset in an equally lush setting? I hope my ensemble - accessorised with a vintage Escada silk blouse and a full skirt - will inspire you to try the military-chic look with genuine military pieces, which I think you'll agree are very wearable.

PHOTOGRAPHY & EDIT: HENRY RIDLEY-COOK & JASIMINNE YIP

LOCATION: KEW GARDENS, LONDON

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Kew Gardens, or as I call it 'The Queen's flower patch' may be a world-and-a-half away on the far end of the District Line, plus to add insult to injury there's a £14 admission fee. That said, Kew Gardens is truly splendid and well worth a visit for any budding botanist or flora enthusiast. 

Apart from the conservatories which are basically massive terrariums, the gardens are seasonal. This week you can expect to see blue Scilla, magnolias, and daffodils in bloom. Don't miss the cherry blossom walk this Spring and try to catch Brazil: A Powerhouse of Plants at The Shirley Sherwood Gallery of Botanical Art - an exhibition of Brazilian flora and illustrations by artist Margaret Mee. Make a day of it - go early, as the gardens close at 5pm - but don't tiptoe through the tulips or you might get a right royal bollocking.

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW

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In case you're wondering, no, I haven't forgotten to blog the second part of Edinburgh Express - I just thought I'd break up all the travel posts with a little bit of vainglory. Edinburgh Express Pt. 2, coming soon! 

Edinburgh Express: What To See & Do In 48 Hours (Pt. 2)

March 25, 2016, 9:36 am

≫ Next: Japanese Canteen, Bethnal Green

≪ Previous: Tropical Toxic

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PART 2 OF EDINBURGH EXPRESS: WHAT TO SEE & DO IN 48 HOURS

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Rested and ready? Excellent. Despair not at the impending end of your Edinburgh trip for there's time still to see many of the city's sights including another hilly ascent, shopping, restaurants and pubs, and then some.  If you were astute enough to time your flight/train back for the afternoon, you'll even have ample time for wildlife-spotting before the end of your city break. Incroyable, no? I mean business when I say 'Edinburgh Express'.

So strap on your boots, grab that camera, bag some pipes, and let's get crackin'...

Guid mornin! Resist the urge to stay wrapped up in your Tweed-clad bed and just admire the city from the turret windows of The Scotsman Hotel - I promise you, Edinburgh is full of gems that must be seen to believed. It is after all the city that inspired JK Rowling to create her magical world of wizards and witches, and where better for breakfast at the café that calls itself 'The Birthplace of Harry Potter'? Head to The Elephant House and grab a table facing Greyfriars Kirkyard with Edinburgh Castle rising in the distance. Dig into pancakes and coffee for a relaxed and inspiring start to the day, maybe doodle or write a story or two...

Lose yourself in the filigreed halls of the nearby National Museum Of Scotland. The museum has something for everyone from curious children to adults looking to reawaken their sense of wonder - from miracles of modern science (here lies Dolly the Sheep), cultural artefacts that will inspired serious wanderlust (Henry and I were mesmerised by the Pacific Islands exhibit), to natural history (wait till you see the astonishing taxidermy marine animals that soar beneath the ceiling!). Free entry with the bonus of ridiculously flattering lighting (thanks to the soaring skylights) makes National Museum Of Scotland an unmissable destination.

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From the National Museum Of Scotland it's a short walk to Victoria Street. 

This elegant 19th century thoroughfare, with its rainbow row of shops bordering either side of the gentle curve of the cobblestoned street is a thing of beauty with its historical architecture (the terraced buildings above are so quintessentially Edinburgh) and just the place for shoppers in search for something unusual and quirky.

Take lunch at The Grain Store, a cozy restaurant in a vaulted and alcoved former storeroom. Here on the first floor you'll have an elevated view of Victoria Street, all the better to get your bearings on where to shop after your meal. The only lunchtime options are a pocket-friendly set menu (£14 for 2 courses, £16 for 3 courses), all the better to save your pennies for later! Happily, The Grain Store menu is as delicious as it is cheap and cheerful, with local Scottish offerings such as oysters and salmon.

                 

A SALVE FOR 
LONG-SUFFERING MALE S.Os

Bored boyfriends, fear not. 

While your gentler half peruses Context Interiors (above) for eclectic home decor and curious souvenirs, pop into The Bow Bar just across the street. Their impressive array of whiskies and beers - not to mention their cheap & cheerful pies! - will keep you busy. 

FURTHER READING  - 

EATINGBURGH: 7 PLACES TO 

EAT & DRINK IN EDINBURGH

Thank me for it, boys. 

Because, trust me, if your lady loves all things vintage she will be making you wait. Especially once she discovers the famous vintage emporium W. Armstrong & Sons...

W. Armstrong & Son, established 1840, claim themselves as 'Britain's Largest Vintage Clothing Emporium'. They are definitely one of the more eclectic, with layered collections of curios spilling out of every crevice! Sadly, none of their antiques nor more exquisite military items are for sale, so the most striking items are more like exhibits to be enjoyed while you peruse for their many rails of vintage clothing. Pay special attention to the rack of Scottish clothing near the entrance (on the wall to the right) - kilts, sporrans, and Glengarrys galore!

It's time to pay your respects to Edinburgh Castle.

The historic fortress and icon of the city skyline rises majestically from Castle Rock, watching over Edinburgh as the many noble sentinels have done so within. Edinburgh Castle is, to say the least, a monument - with 3,000 years of history to its name, the site itself has been occupied since the late Bronze Age while the castle as we know it dates back to the 12 century and is still in use today. 

There are a plethora of tours that serve Edinburgh Castle, and a lot of fascinating history to be gleamed for the price of a ticket - although I would suggest booking online for fast-track entry. Even if after you've made the steep climb to the castle and decide you don't fancy paying £16.50 to enter, there is still plenty to see - the occasional wedding photoshoot on sunnier days, and of course the sweeping vista of Edinburgh!

             

Tempting as it is to call it a day and sink into your seductively-soft bed (and how can I blame you? Climbing cobblestoned hills and scaling slopes is knackering. Sight-seeing in Edinburgh is quite the workout!) I beseech you to power on. Just for one more stop - I promise you that it will be worth it.

Head over to Princes Street - it's a 15 minute walk downhill from Edinburgh Castle - cut through the Royal Mile and North Bridge, and cross to the back of the Apple Store to find The Voodoo Rooms.

This is the bar you just can't miss when in Edinburgh. Its opulent decor couldn't be a further cry from the city's many traditional pubs with its exposed brick walls, and wouldn't look out of place in Tsarist Russia.

Even if you're not here for the swinging music events that seem to be a nightly occurrence, you have to stop by for a cocktail or two - the ambience is surprisingly cozy for such a grandly decorated space! 

After you've had a Forager's Fancy you can finally head back to The Scotsman Hotel. Put your feet up and order room service - go on, you've earned it.

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The sad time has come to pack your bags and head back to London on The Hogwarts Express, or onward to whichever destination. Before bidding farewell to this magical city, let the critters at Edinburgh Zoo see you out. This award-winning zoo, lauded by David Attenborough - aka the big daddy of all things nature - as what all zoos should aspire to, is ever so conveniently located just ten minutes from the airport so if you have the good luck to be heading that way, you've really no excuse to drop in and compare the meerkats. 

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READ THE REST OF MY EDINBURGH POSTS

Edinburgh Express: What To See & Do In 48 Hours (Pt. 1)

Arriving in Edinburgh: The Scotsman Hotel

North Bridge Brasserie at The Scotsman Hotel, Edinburgh

Edinburgh Eats